City Break in Cracow, Poland - I escaped for a while

Hi. After a break from this blog, here goes. At last I've had a break from all my troubles, which seemed to start as soon as I came back from my last holday in early September last. Last Friday I flew off to Cracow/Krakow in Poland - where I had also spent 2 hours last year on the way home from the wild Polish South East. I booked the trip back then with a travel company, Riviera Tours, who specialise in city breaks. It was done very much the easy way: nearly 50 people met by a courier and a big coach the other end, all booked into a big modern hotel near Wavel Castle and by the River Vistula, not far from the city centre (the modern, 5 star Novotel Centrum). As I do not live in luxury, this in itself was a treat - there was even a swimming pool and gym in the basement, with a jacuzzi. I'd never sat in a jacuzzi before! As before, I had a single room all to myself, with ensuite shower and loo, plus a TV which had BBC News 24 (the rest was in Polish, apart from Movie Channel). There was no view from my room, but I only had to go outside and step out in the street, and could see the castle and the river. The restaurant offered good local dishes; as a single woman (for the holiday) I ate there, to avoid hassle or harassment from going to a strange eaterie where I might have difficulties.

The first afternoon we were taken on an orientation tour, but I soon had to strike out on my own to find a photo shop, as one of my cameras (for transparencies) needed new batteries (I'd not checked it back home). I used my map and worked out how and where to go - then later bumped into our guide and two older ladies in the town centre (but lost them again). I found my way to the main Market Square, the vast Rynek Glowny - I'd not made it there on my last brief visit. That is where all Cracow's outdoor life seems to go on - people stroll about, there's the buzz of people sitting at open-air cafes, and smart horse-drawn buggies clop about, giving tours of the town. There are "statue" people dressed up in weird costumes: I saw a knight, a mountaineer or shepherd, a man in a strait jacket and a crazy "bride" among others. Also stalls selling all sorts of squeaky toys, wooden bangles or beads and fluffy versions of Cracow's famous Dragon (which once lived under the castle). One day I saw a man dressed up as the dragon, walking around!

As it was coming up to Palm Sunday (which I was there for), stalls were selling flowers or palm sprays, most of these made up from wands of grass and dried flowers, some dyed in striking colours. People walked around with these - particularly on Palm Sunday, when every Pole was going to or from church. Nearly 90% of the Poles are Catholic, and the reminder are 'Uniates', or Orthodox-Catholic (this is only in the South East). Very few are Atheist. There were lighted votive candles all along the white walls of the grounds of the Franciscan Basilica. The key features of the Market Square are the Clock Tower, the Suciennice (long, mediaeval Cloth Hall), the amazing, true Gothic St. Mary's church (the Mariacka) which has 2 ornate towers, one higher than the other. Inside it is the most amazing altar piece and carvings by a C14th German sculptor called Veit Stoss (or Wit Stwosz). The ceiling is painted azure blue with small golden stars. The bells ring every hour; then a lone bugler plays from the main corners of the higher tower, recalling a legend of when the Tartars killed the bugler who was warning the city of their attack on it (in C.14th? - I will check this date).

The next day we had a formal tour of the city with another Polish guide. We were taken by coach up to the castle, and she talked us though it. I went there last year, but I looked for new photo angles. Then it was into the city along the "Royal Route" that the old Polish monarchs used to travel to and from the castle. This was built in C16th, and was occupied by the rulers for about 200 years; then the royal court moved to Warsaw. But most of their famous kings and queens are buried there, along with more famous personages (poets, artists and heroes). The names are wonderful - the first ruler, Prince Krak, King Sigismund the Old, Casimir the Great; the Bishop, martyr and later Saint Stanislaus (who was 'quartered' for opposing a royal diktat), adn the sainted Queen Jadwiga Jagiellonka who donated her wealth to found the ancient Jagiellonian University, and whose touch healed the poor. (She was canonised in the 1990s.) Statues of thse figures appear around the city. We walked through the main Square and the old University complex; then on to the Florian Gate, where part of the original city walls and gate remains; there is a lurid gallery of paintings by local artists, of rather dubious quality, and a leatherwork stall. Here is one of the only extant castle barbicans of Europe standing nearby. The original moat is now a planted park ("Planty") that surrounds the whole ancient city. You can walk all round the central city via this park. The guide left us at that point.

After a pizza lunch at a cafe, and a recovery break back at the hotel, I ventured out on my own. I decided to visit the small Museum where there are 2 famous paintings, a Rembrandt and a beautiful Leonardo da Vinci ('The Lady with the Ermine'), of which they are justly proud. This is the Czartoriski Museum, founded by a princess of that name in the C19th. It also contains many memoribilia from the old Polish rulers - paintings, clothes, china, miniatures, armour/saddlery, and a full C.18th Turkish tent, with the armour and livery of 5 Polish soldiers, from the wars against the Ottoman Empire. There was no English guide, so I worked things out for myself. Few people were there, and it was about to close. It was the most amazing experience standing before the beautiful, delicate Leonardo portrait - almost as famous as the Mona Lisa, and more lovely, to me - unlike in the Louvre (Paris), where the crowds press in, and you have to walk through miles of corridors. The Rembrandt (a landscape) was great too, but did not strike me the same way. I also went round the inside of The Mariacki (St.Mary's Church, on Square) - where the interiors blew me away too... the beaten silver gilded Altar panel by Veit Stoss of the Virgin Mary's "dormition" and ascent to Heaven, and with scenes from Jesus' life all along the choir stalls, and that wonderful blue and gold ceiling. Stoss had also carved an amazing lifelike crucifix in a side aisle - Jesus looks real, with the wound in his side (painted red). I paid a small fee to be able to film in there, and also in the museum mentioned before. People were in part of the church praying - as it was just before Easter. I tried not to disturb them, and I lit a candle.

That night I used the swimming pool - a small quarter-sized pool, but enjoyable. This revived me to enable me to enjoy the evening meal. Next day it was a big journey - to the Nazi German Concentration Camps at Auschwitz and Birkenau. A few people opted not to go. I wanted to see these places for myself (I am not Jewish, but it resonates with me - I was born in the 1939-1945 World War). The camps are at Ozwiecim - the Polish name for Auschwitz. A drive though quiet, sunny countryside took us there; the main trees in the area are silver birch (one grows on my daughter's grave). We got out of the coach, went to the toilet, then saw a 20 minute film, and then all 50 of us filed out to the camp proper, led by guides...(this process reminded me of the original occupants). There was that gateway: "Arbeit Macht Frei" was the slogan in wrought iron, above a path that few ever returned from. We were taken round the blockhouses in which were grim exhibits. I saw the "Executuion Wall" and a multiple gibbet. We saw a building with cells in the basement, where the inmates had to stand up, or they were in total darkness (Guantanamo Bay anyone?) We went into one of the last surviving gas chamgers, where the ovens still existed. Visitors had placed wreaths upon them. Then came a short coach ride on to Birkenau (Camp II, even worse?); we stood in the original guardhouse entrance, while a guide lectured... then we walked around a few existing draughty, wooden huts with those tiers of bunk beds and central ovens, and then up the long bumpy gravel path beside the "railway of death" - two tracks led only to two former gas chambers and burial grounds, long demolished (by the Nazis). At the end is now a huge abstract black granite and marble Holocaust Memorial, with inscriptions in every relevant language, and more flowers left on the steps. I was able to film there - and we walked back to our coach along the rail track: the Nazis' victims never had that option. We had bought a few books and cards (I bought a DVD) in the small shops at Auschwitz Camp I. Then we returned to our Cracow base. That evening I went on a city buggy tour of the Kasimierz Jewish quarter of Cracow - this seemed right. I had another swim; then enjoyed a last meal in the hotel.

The 4th day (2 days ago) was the return home - one more last walk around the old city. I bought decorated eggs in the shops on the Square, postcards, glassware, and a small wood-carving of the dragon. The flight home was easy - then I struggled back through the British rush hour, and was back home. This tour was brief, but made a huge impression on me. I have already taken in my photos to be developed, and have 3-4 hours of film. There is no more real news of our son Tom and his case. I will return to that soon. His next court hearing is in about 9 days; then we will know more. We have not been able to see him (as he's not managed to send us an Order), but he has rang us at least once a week. I truly needed this holiday - if only to take my mind off my dificult family life, and expand my horizons again.

Best wishes for Easter - and greetings to anyone who reads this...
Tigey